Episode 6

Episode 6 - The discovery session



A typical lull at work sees me surfing the net, checking out the surfing websites, the weather forecasts and generally posting useless posts on the usual forums.

After exhausting myself of useless contributions, I decided to check out the coast, time for another spot to be found I decided, after the last few visits to my usual spots found them more crowded than a zoo.

Fortunately I am lucky enough to have access to some pretty detailed maps of the local coast line. I start looking around for spots nearish to me that look like they might pick up some good swell, and at the same time provide some good shelter from the winds.

After a couple of hours I strike upon what looks like a top spot. Nice little cove, long walk to the beach to eliminate the grockles, ideal!

I phone home to the missus, and she is up for checking it out Saturday avo, drop a text to fluffer and big al, and they are both on as well. Saturdays looking to be flat in all the usual spots, so we have nothing better to do..

Saturday afternoon comes and we head down there, Big Al drives which makes a nice change, and before long we are almost halfway into my printed out list of directions, direct from a certain online route planner.

"Next left.." I say "Then 2 miles, then we have to check the timetable and take the ferry...???!!?!?" "Ferry!" Everyone else chorus's. "Well that's what it says here.." I say as I show them all the directions. The strange thing is I know roughly where the spot is, and its all inland, why the hell do we have to take a ferry??

After looking through the map I see what the route planners done.. "It's taken us the SHORTEST route, not the best" I say as we join the mile long queue for the ferry. We are staying inland, but the ferry crosses from one side of the town to the other.

We eventually get to the ferry, pay our fee, and before we know it we are back on the road.

A few twists and turns and we start out on the B road to this small spot.

"I don't like where we are heading.." Big Al says... "Oh yeah" I say remembering he is an agoraphobic! And we are driving into a distinctly open big area at the top of a big hill!

"I think I'm gonna stay in the car" he says, looking more freaked out by the mile..

Eventually we get to the car park, and after being fleeced for £2, we are heading down this remote little path toward the break.

When we finally get there, it's truly a spectacular sight. The cove is a perfect little size, really well sheltered from the wind.

We make the final decent to the beach and stand at the shore edge.

"Ahhhh look at that..!" Fluffer exclaims as a little swell line shows itself on the horizon, we follow it in and although small, it forms a perfect little left, and peels down the line.

"I bet this spot would be kicking in a north westerly swell" Fluffer says "For defo, its perfectly sheltered too, so its gotta hold a nice wave" I reply.

We look further around the beach and find it would be idea for bbq's, and all dayer surf / sun sessions, it's a right little sun trap.

As we wonder around, we find that just a small climb over some rocks at the far end of the beach and there is another slightly smaller cove as we walk to the end of that one, something catches fluffer's eye..

"NOooooo" he exclaims... "What, what's the matter?", "Look!" he says pointing to the right of the 2nd cove.. "Look at that! It's a reef break!"

I track my eyes over to the right and lo and behold he's right, a sweet little point setup. Just as I had clocked it a pulse of swell starts making its way in. Just before the rocks it starts to Jack right up! By the time its hit the point, it's a PERFECT shape, and although small today, it would be absolutely cranking in bigger conditions.

We stand and watch the spot for a while, and it's just consistent and perfect every time...

The sun has started to drop now, so we head back to the car. On the way back up fluffer is throwing stones into a small stream in a gulley to the right of the path. He suddenly turns around with a look of horror on his face as to his disgust he has picked up a rock with dog mess on it! "Nasty!" I say backing away from the newly nicknamed poo hand man!. His face is not one of joy and after wiping it in the grass he trudges back up the path muttering about inconsiderate dog owners and the like.

Back at the car, we are surprised to see Big Al still there! We had bets on whether he would have done a runner, after the wide open space finally getting the better of him!

We are pretty quiet on the way home, all trying to plan the next time the conditions are on so we can head down and actually surf that new found legend of a spot.

Surfing the popular breaks has its place, and in the winter they are hard to beat. But when it comes to the summer, with big spots crowded out, a small investment of time, and you could well have your own secret spot! All for the sake of a few hours exploration!


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