Episode 3
Episode 3 - The suprise session  

 

It's usually the case that when ever the surf gets good, you find yourself at work, or with some other engagement that you can't miss!

And it happened this time, well for everyone except me!

I had been consulting the charts and following a particular low heading to my favourite local break, it was due to hit on Wednesday. I made a few customary phone calls to fluffer and chunk and the big guy, but they were all on their first day back to work after a nice long new years break. Typical!

I had taken some extra time off, so looks like its going to be a lonely one. But I was still keen not to miss it, as good swell at the local break is hard to come by.

Tuesday night arrived and the bad weather started coming in, and with it the wind which was what I was relying on for the swell.

Wednesday morning and things had settled a little which is always a good sign, the wind picks up and blows the swell in, then it drops and the swell cleans up.

I headed down to the break on my own. To be honest I don't mind surfing on my own, and sometimes it's good to have a session on your own. You don't have anyone else to think about and can just concentrate on what you are doing. It's a bit more of soul surf when I'm on my own.

I pulled up alongside the break and there were a few surfers out, not loads though. Just as I started to get changed another couple of car loads of surfers arrived. The wind had whipped the swell up, but it wasn't amazing, maybe 3-4ft, and slightly messy, but it was the best it had been for some time, so I wasn't bothered.

I started paddling out, the tide was on the push and I was shockingly unfit. I made it to the back, and sat on my board getting my breath back. Its strange, your local break that you surf day in day out with your mates, seems different when you are on your own.

I sat there for a moment, thinking that it certainly wasn't going to be the epic surf of the year, but I always say that no matter what the conditions are like, its always good exercise.

I caught a couple of backy offy crumbly lefts and a couple of rights, not really surfing my best, but I put it down to lack of good fitness. Although for a change I had plenty of energy.

I waited a few sets to pick the next wave, trying to make the best of what was not a particularly good session. The wind started to pick up again, and it started raining. Rain is always a good thing, helping to clean up the waves, and the conditions on this day would especially benefit a little of that!

True to that it started to go glassy, ideal I thought, just as I was thinking I might get out.

I caught another few waves, and the faces had cleaned up a treat. Still not amazing, but much better than it had been.

Another half hour and I was starting to get knackered. I sat out back just watching the people on the shore, walking around, alone with my thoughts when I noticed something.

The waves breaking further in, they were kicking up spray, not only that it was blowing back over the breaking wave.

That could only mean one thing! The wind had gone offshore!!

Within 10 minutes the waves coming through were perfect, 4ft, glassy and a gentle offshore wind blowing. It was a damn shame that I had been out already for 2 hours, but I endeavoured to plough on, offshore glassy waves were not something I like to miss.

I caught a few lovely lefts doing a few airs, and hitting the lip hard. I pretty much used up all the energy I had, and sat out back again thinking how a typical mushy session that looked pretty boring turned into a perfect offshore session.

And as if that wasn't enough, to top it all, Ivor shows up. Ivors a great and extremely talented local surfer, who is rarely missing from a session. It was the finishing touch, a friendly face.

On my way home I thought back about the session that had just happened. I could have not bothered, and decided to wait until the other guys were around, I could have seen the conditions and not bothered but I didn't.

The moral of this story, if you make the effort to go out, then go out! You never know what Mother Nature holds in store. Offshore winds were not forecast, but they still came. I had no idea Ivor was going to be out that day, but he turned up. And that's just the way it goes some times.

And I wouldn't have missed it for the world!

 
 

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