Episode 2
Episode 2- The secret spot... 

 

We had been after a new spot for some time, not that there is anything wrong with our local break, but sometimes it’s nice to exercise the brain and see what else is out there.
I was recently talking to this guy I know who surfs kind of irregularly, and he mentioned this little spot that he said he sometimes goes to.
So, I get out the map and do a little work on the coast near where he was talking about, I found this spot, which on the map anyways, looked pretty good, sheltered, miles from anywhere! Perfect!!
I phoned up fluffer, “fluffer, i've been looking on the map, and think I might have found THE spot! its miles from anywhere, accessible only by 4x4 or foot and sheltered.” “Hrmm” I hear down the phone, “How far away is it?”, I do a quick estimate, “bout a hour and half I reckon”, “and the swell, what’s going on at the moment anything doing?”, “Well according to the charts, Saturdays going to be good, looking like the winds going offshore, swell should be a nice 4ft +, what more do you want!”. With little more encouragement, fluffer is in for a trip Saturday to this new spot.

The next few days were a struggle, working but not really with my heart on the matter, thinking more about what may or may not be at this SPOT.

Finally Saturday comes around, and by 8am, the trucks loaded and we are on the way, we’ve timed it so we should arrive around low tide – always better on the push. The hunt was on.

“Where am I going?” I say to fluffer who is holding the map, after we’ve gone out of my memory stored route and I’m now lost. “Ermm…. Hold on a sec….” he mutters “I think it’s a left just round this next bend and down the hill…”, “Ok”, I say, never really confident of his map reading ability! Although we do usually get where we wanna go…
Round one corner…..
Down the hill
Ideal! There is a left turn! He wasn’t wrong..
The road goes from A road to B road to C? road in a matter of miles and before we know it we are being bumped around like peas in a tin can. The poor boards that got “slung” in the back are knocking around as well.
“Can you chuck the towel in between the boards, that sound is just horrible…” I say to fluffer, as I cringe each time the two boards knock against each other!

Where now?!” We have reached a dead end! Well mostly dead, with the exception of a small track, fit only for walking. “Well, that’s the track, we aren’t far from the cove now, its gotta be just down there..”, “And the truck? What am I gonna do with it? I can’t just leave it here!”, “Sling it in that field..” fluffer helpfully suggests.. Well there was no where else to put it, and I didn’t fancy backing all the way down the lane we had just driven, so I drive in to a field which had no livestock, just grass in, and tuck the truck in tight to the hedge.

We grab our gear, and head off down the bushy, thawny, muddy path that lay ahead of us, wondering what will be at the end, if anything!
After about 10 minutes of walking through the nastiest of muddy lanes, there is light at the end of the tunnel!
“I reckon that’s the way down…” fluffer says, pointing at a slight path if you can call it that. “ Are you sure you told me the right turning to take?” I say, questioning his map reading ability….
Yeeeeeees, this is the place, defo.., come on lets just get down there.” I follow fluffer who picks his path carefully down the side of the hill, which slowly turns in to cliff.
All of a sudden!
Noooooo!” Says fluffer.. “What? what can you see” I say sensing that it’s a excited comment rather than one of disgust or disappointment..
Cheeeck it out!” I take a peak round fluffer to see the SETS, just coming in, one after the other, non stop! It’s a truly awesome sight.
“If its big here!” I say “It’ll be bigger when we get down there”
We speed our decent down this rocky path.
Finally we get to the bottom, which is mostly sandy. The tide is low alright, don’t reckon you would be able to surf it much higher than middle tide, but who cares. The winds gone and the swells glassy!
“Dude, you’ve struck gold here” fluffer says to me.
I get changed in the quickest time known to fluffer, and am soon legging it in the water.
It’s a clean 4-6ft and wedgy as anything.
I paddle out duck diving maybe 3-4 waves in a row, all of a sudden it drops off and I paddle like a terminator to get out back before the next set arrives.
Just make it out back, and then sit and just watch for a few minutes while getting my breath back.
The thing is you just would never know this spot even existed if it wasn’t for a map and word of mouth. I don’t know how many surfers if any have surfed this break, but surely someone must have.
I look to my right and see fluffer taking off on a peach of a 4 footer, as he disappears in front of the wave; I just catch sight of the spray and his fins as he digs in on the top turn.


Its my turn, I see a lovely lump of swell heading my way, I turn, start to paddle, I feel the swell catch up with me, and lift, I get up late, but manage to make the drop.
It’s a sweet hollow wave, that’s actually quite mellow once you are on. I stall back attempting a bit of cover up, but loose it and get wiped out!
Back out back, I paddle over to fluffer.
“What time u gotta be back?” I say, he just looks at me! “Waves like this - u joking! They can all wait!”
“Fair play I reply”. I had no where else to be, the missus was working all day, we would probably only get another couple of hours before it started getting too high.
We surfed, and surfed, and surfed until I could hardly paddle back after getting a ride.
Eventually, fluffer made the call.. “One more and in?” I nodded.
We got out and got changed and just stayed and watched these beauties continue to roll in.
They don’t stop for anyone, they don’t stop for anything, they just keep coming. Totally surf stoked, we walked back to the truck, to tired to speak.

Back in the truck fluffer looks at me and says “think I saw a tescos a few miles back on the main road, brunch?” “Hell yeah!” I say.

There might not have been anything, and it might have been a wasted drive. But then if we hadn’t gone we wouldn’t have found it. The secret spot. Maybe we are the only ones who know about it, maybe others do. But I know one thing, I’m not gonna forget it, and i'm gonna go back!

 
 

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