Episode 1
 Episode 1 - The local one... 

 

So... I get the call its chunk........" winds gone off-shore, tides on the push, and its 2ft and clean, I know it aint much but I’m goin in, u comin down?... ", "I'll be down ASAP" I say.

I'd been waiting all day for the report, had a good weekend, swell had pushed through all weekend, nothing epic, but sometimes it’s just not about the size. After 3 sessions in 3 days, I was feeling on top of my surf, chunks report came through finally. He was going straight in, grr! That thought was going to torture me until I could get down there. There’s very little worse than that, especially when you know every minute your not in, it gets closer to sundown, and all those good waves going to waste!

So now back to work, got to think, its 3.30pm now, I could leave early, again! At 4 I’m off out the door, hardly a goodbye... gotta go, no time to waste, times already against me, its the bad time of the year, everyday it gets dark earlier, the after work sessions are coming to a close.

Roar out the car park, if only I’d left my board and wettie in the truck wouldn't have to go home and that would have saved me a good 20mins. Finally get home, grab the board, the bin liner with me wettie, still wet from yesterdays sesh. Back in the truck, off to the break. Got the tunes on to get me amped. 2fts nothing really to write home about, but after a day at work, and I mean a day, 1 day, it’s Monday, what better way to spend the afternoon/evening! Your local break with your mates.

On the way I give fluffer a bell on the mobile (handsfree of course) "its small but there is sommot there" I say, "2ft and clean". Unfortunately I’d forgotten fluffer was away all week, and no where near the coast! "Muargghhhh, as far as I’m concerned it’s flat, and that’s all there is to it" says fluffer and hangs up. He hates it when there is surf and he can't get to it, so prefers to pretend it never happened, i've started to see his point of view too, does dull the pain of not being able to go in somewhat.

I finally get to the break, change on the pavement beside the truck, leg it down and jump straight in. Still a good hour and a half of light left, temps good still in me summer suit and it is clean, very clean, light winds, but its dropped, its gone from 2ft to 1ft, 1 1/2 tops. Well I’m here now so I’m goin in!

Surprisingly enough there is quite a few out, mostly, long boarders - why didn't I take the missus's mal! Bah, gonna struggle to pick up anything on mine, paddle in anyways, a few customary nods to the regulars, nestle my place in the line up if you can call it that.

Chunk floats on over, "It was bigger, it’s dropped off, this'll be it now for a bit...", "yeah" I say "not much here really....". But it doesn't matter, i'm not out with the normal crowd, only really know a couple. The long boarders are managing to catch the waves long before they are feasible on my board, but a nice little left comes my way, I paddle so hard, I’ve not put in all the effort to get here not to catch some waves... Paddle...Paddle..Paddle... wait..push, and up. It’s a mellow left, small bottom turn, off the lip, back down, aaaaaand I’m at the shore! Ah well, first one down. I drop off the board, and am waist high in the water! Paddle back out to the line up. The next few waves I get are pretty similar, short, bit lack lustre, but waves none the less.

But that’s what it’s all about, where else could I be? What else would I rather be doing? And that’s just it, nowhere, nothing. So it’s not 6ft and there are no tubes to be had, like I would get them if there were! But I’m out, I made it. It’s a bonus for me, that may be the last of the swell now for a week, 2 weeks who knows, that’s just how the summer is. After being out for about an hour and a half its gone more like 1/2ft, so I decide to call it a day. Quick wave to chunk who is chatting to some mates, and that’s my lot.

Back to the truck, always the hassle of getting the wettie off, always end up mooning someone! Chuck the gear in the back, I phone up the missus.."Hiya, its me", "Oh ello" she says, "where are you?", "just been surfing, leaving to come home now, I’ll see you in a bit".

I get home, sort out some food. I'm knackered, 4 sessions in 4 days and I’m out of practice, none of them were epic's, but then what defines an epic sesh?

To me its just about being out, maybe being with your mates, maybe the sunset, there’s always that one turn, or that one drop that sticks in your mind, after all, its not always big, its not always medium, but when there is sommot there, and I can, I’ll be out.

 
 

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